NINETEEN SIXTY FOUR – PART 124
Fowey Harbour 1937, 2013 and 2026
Michael L. Roach
Saturday 22 August 2026 was the last day of the Fowey Regatta week which climaxed with a spectacular firework display. The Red Arrows have been regular visitors to the Regatta in the past but not this year as they were away in the USA for most of the summer. The last time I saw the Red Arrows at Fowey was in 2013 when we were high up in the town on Hanson Drive. It was an ideal place to see the display as we were level with the higher parts of Polruan on the opposite side of the harbour and had uninterrupted views out to see sea, and were level with the planes on some passes. Most of the flight paths took place east – west and north – south above the harbour. Having seen the Red Arrows in a number of places, including air displays and other towns, this was quite the best location anywhere to watch the display. Three of my photos from 2013 are at the end. On a personal note one of my 4 times great grandfathers, Philip Salt was born at Polruan on 25 June 1749. He was a Master Mariner, a Fowey Harbour Pilot and is buried in Polruan's Parish Church at Lanteglos-by-Fowey inside the church, beneath the north aisle.
On the Saturday evening Jon Hird travelled down the river in a small boat and was kind enough to send me some of the photos he took which are used here to enhance this article about Fowey and lead on to more about the export of china clay in 2026. The picture of the fireworks has been shown here before, but it is repeated because it is just such a fabulous photo. There was one ship at No. 8 jetty that evening, 22 August and we will follow it's progress after leaving Fowey.
The Karla C is a 106 by 15.5 metre general cargo ship sailing under the flag of Portugal. It continued loading china clay at Fowey on Monday and left the wharf before sunrise at Fowey on Tuesday 25 August. After a couple of hours it arrived off Rame Head and moored up in Cawsand Bay to wait for a berth. It was heading for Victoria Wharves, Cattedown, Plymouth. However the Wharves were occupied by Baltic Sail loading china clay. Baltic Sail departed about 17.30 on Tuesday 25 for Antwerp. While Karla C was waiting in Cawsand Bay, outside The Breakwater, another ship was waiting south of Drake's Island – it was the Elisa (90 by 13.6 metres) which had arrived from Casablanca, a general cargo ship under the flag of Barbados which entered Victoria Wharves soon after Baltic Sail had departed on 25 August. It loaded on 26 August and sailed about 16.45 on 26th leaving Karla C finally free to moor up in Victoria Wharves.
The voyage of the Elisa is interesting because it will take the ship to the far end of the Mediterranean where it is due to dock at Abu Qir, Egypt on 10 September 2026. Some 20 miles away in Alexandria are various paper mills with a large paper mill belonging to a firm called the El-Salam Paper. This is no surprise really as Egypt was the source of papyrus, the first paper-like writing sheet, some 5000 years ago, and in 2026 there are an amazing 382 paper mills in Egypt. Abu Qir receives regular shipments of Dartmoor china clay from Plymouth. As I watched ship movements in Plymouth Sound on the afternoon of Tuesday 25th there were six merchant navy deep sea ships there at one stage. The Karla C and the Elisa waiting to enter while Baltic Sail was actually in Victoria Wharves. At the northern end of Cattewater Wharves was Cemgulf unloading cement brought from Santander – it departed next day for Vigo, also Spain. Meanwhile the Brittanny Ferries Pont Aven arrived from Santander and departed back to Santander a few hours later; and Thun London arrived from Milford Haven with petroleum products to unload at Cattewater Wharves where arrival was at 15.45, departing back to Milford Haven just 24 hours later.
Karla C had arrived at the Jetty at Fowey about 16.00 on Friday 21 August from Le Treport in Northern France and finally left Victoria Wharves and Britain at about 16.00 hours on 27 August for Valetta, Malta where it is due to arrive on 6 September 2026. Victoria Wharves was not empty for long as the next ship arrived within minutes. It was the Celtic Navigator – a 90 by 15 metre general cargo ship which had travelled from Shoreham, and which sailed the following evening for Tangier. The Karla C duly arrived off Malta at 18.30 local time on 5 September as planned, but Malta does not appear to have any paper mills, so does not need china clay. After a couple of hours the ship set off again heading south east at 10.4 knots (12 mph). At breakfast time on 6 September it was more than 130 miles from Malta heading south east and still without a destination port. It was then about three days sailing from Abu Qir where Elisa C is heading. At the time of submission to the Editor (22.00 hours on 6 September 2026) the Karla C is heading east in the Med about 250 miles from Malta, and still no destination.
You can follow the journeys of these ships on marinetraffic.com but note that the times quoted there are earlier and later than I have quoted because I believe they are the times it drops anchor in The Sound or when the harbour pilot goes aboard. It can take the pilot of a large oil ship 45 minutes or more to safely navigate the ship from The Sound to actually mooring up alongside Cattewater Wharf.
RECOMMENDED READING: Coasters of Cornwall – see below. Also Coasters of South Devon which has a large section devoted to the quays and wharves of Plymouth, many of which no longer receive coasters.