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November 1st 2024

1/11/2024

 

NINETEEN SIXTY FOUR – PART 14
Charlestown Harbour
Michael L. Roach

The harbour at Charlestown was constructed over a period of ten years from 1791 to export copper from local mines  and must have been a major exercise in excavation for the time. The properties around the harbour were built at the same time and the whole harbour area remains little-altered. The harbour is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and part of the Cornwall & West Devon Mining Landscape WHS. The harbour area is very atmospheric which is why it is often used for filming historical dramas.

As copper mining, and later tin mining, declined in Victorian times something arose to take its place and that was the rapid expansion of the mining and export of kaolin or china clay from the huge deposits to the north of St. Austell. As china clay mining declines a new mineral is in demand to takes its place and that is lithium, which is needed for car batteries, and which occurs in the same areas as china clay. The production of lithium took a big leap forward with the opening of a 10,000 tonne per annum demonstration plant to produce battery-grade lithium hydroxide in October 2024. The plant is owned by Cornish Lithium and located at Trelavour.

One of the smaller china clay mining companies was owned by the Tregothnan Estates – Tregothnan House is the home of Lord Falmouth. The Company was known as the Goonvean and Rostowrack China Clay Company, later changing the name to just Goonvean; and one of their main sites was at Trelavour mentioned above. Goonvean sold out to Imerys in 2014. It is believed that latterly Goonvean were the only company to use Charlestown Harbour for dispatching china clay but that ceased many years ago (20 to 30 ?). Since then Charlestown has been used as a base for sailing ships. I would call into Charlestown harbour occasionally when passing particularly in the 1970s and 1980s to see what coasters were present and take photographs.

Monday 7 May 1979 was a Bank Holiday. The following day I took a day off work and spent several hours at Charlestown in and around the harbour photographing the comings and goings. I was very lucky and had picked a good day. There were three coasters in port when I arrived at 12.30pm and three when I left five hours later. However I watched one leave and another arrive to take its place. Ships arriving have to be turned through ninety degrees which is done by warping. This was then done by dock workers with a rope attached to the each end of the ship. 

There has never been a standard gauge railway line bringing china clay to the harbour because it wasn't originally necessary. The china clay arrived at the harbour by pipeline in slurry form and was dried in “dries” adjacent to the harbour from where it could be taken under the road in tunnels on a narrow gauge railway and dumped straight into the holds of the waiting ships down a sloping chute. The chutes were in use until the end of clay exports through the port of Charlestown and were doomed because of the clouds of fine dust released into the air, which was not at all environmentally friendly ! Charlestown is a “floating harbour” which means that water is normally retained in the harbour by a single lock gate. The gate can be lowered into the horizontal position when the water levels each side of the gate have been equalised which in practice (from observation) is about two hours before high water to two hours after high water, allowing boats to sail in and out. The china clay dries closed many decades ago after which all the clay arrived by road. Part of the site of the dries was later used as the Charlestown Shipwreck and Heritage Centre. In 2024 it was announced that the museum was for sale but there may have been no takers as museums are having a tough time at present. Later it was announced that the museum was to close with contents sold by Lay's Auctioneers of Penzance. The auction details say that there are some 8000 artifacts, from 150 shipwrecks, to be auctioned on 6/7/8 November 2024 at Lay's Saleroom in Penzance, with viewing of the artifacts on the four days before the first auction day on site at Charlestown.

The next port to the west was Pentewan which once also exported large volumes of china clay, but suffered continual problems with silting up. The last ship left Pentewan in 1940. Three miles to the east of Charlestown was the Port of Par, which had far more berths than Charlestown. The main commodity dealt with at Par was again china clay but it also imported materials like timber. There was a good view of Par Docks from main line trains and it was possible at times to see more than half a dozen coasters moored up. Par gradually lost out to Fowey as a result of the BR Docks at Fowey being leased to ECLP; the direct railway from Par to Fowey being converted to a haul road for china clay lorries; and the gradual shift to larger cargo ships. The last coaster left Par in 2007, leaving just the Port of Fowey to export china clay to other countries – a job that the port has been doing since 1869, although the history of the harbour goes back at least 400 years before that date.
​

Charlestown is well worth visiting if you have never been, and for readers living further away who would like a day out by train the village is located just one and a half miles from St. Austell railway station. Read more at the website - http://www.charlestownharbour.com
Picture
My first view of the harbour at 12.30pm on Tuesday 8 May 1979 showing Birte of Plymouth on the left; Anna V on the right and Espero at the far end still being loaded. Copyright Michael L. Roach.
Picture
A typical lorry of the period dating from 1975/76. This one belonged to Western Express Haulage which was owned by ECLP. Note the chimney of the former china clay dries. Copyright Michael L. Roach.
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Anna V has moved to the left of the dock to allow Espero to leave. Copyright Michael L. Roach.
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Espero is warped out of Charlestown. Note the waiting ships in the distance. Copyright Michael L. Roach.
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Eilean Glas sails into Charlestown. Copyright Michael L. Roach.
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Eilean Glas sails over the dock gate to enter the inner basin. Note the chimney again. Copyright Michael L. Roach.
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A last view looking south-east along the inner basin at 5.20pm on 8 May 1979. Copyright Michael L. Roach.
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Here is a view of real congestion at Charlestown, some 65 years earlier than when I was there in 1979. Copyright Michael L. Roach.
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This diagram explains how the clay moved from the inlet pipe bringing the clay in slurry form through the drying process to the hold of the ship via a narrow gauge railway. Copyright Michael L. Roach.
Many thanks Michael for another interesting article.

​For more of Michaels work, please click here.


Goss Moor goings-on
Jon Hird

Picture
I had a quick trip over to Indian Queens today to see what could be seen of the work being done to construct a new passing loop on the Goss Moor, in connection with 'The Mid Cornwall Metro'. The days Newquay shuttle unit passes by the worksite which is near St. Dennis Junction. 31.10.2024, copyright Jon Hird.
Picture
The former St. Dennis Junction with the old and new A30's both crossing the line. Space was left beneath the new A30 bridge during its design and construction to reinstate the junction if it was ever required. 31.10.2024, copyright Jon Hird.
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A 1979 image by Michael Roach taken from the old A30 road bridge visible at the bottom of the previous image. The track work has already been reduced significantly even by this point. Copyright Michael L. Roach.
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The drone is roughly above what was St. Dennis Junction and we are looking towards Roche in this image. 31.10.2024, copyright Jon Hird.
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Looking towards Newquay. 31.10.2024, copyright Jon Hird.
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I'm certain that the majority of our readers will be famililar with the layout of St. Dennis Junction, but if you're not, here is an annotated image of the former St. Dennis Junction. I was surprised to see that the route of the Retew / Meledor Mill branch is still just about able to be seen by the tree line. Copyright Jon Hird.

Swindon Scenes
Ken Mumford

Picture
66105 shunting vehicles [and making itself audible horn-wise!] Was this going to be 6M53 (Swindon Stores to Toton Up Yard which left 201 EARLY according to RTT - Real Train Times)? 31.10.2024, Copyright Ken Mumford.
Picture
Was this 66540 with 4L36 [Wentlogg to Felixstowe] running some 67 LATE and waiting some time on the UML [Up Main Line]? 31.10.2024, copyright Ken Mumford.
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4L36 and1L13 side by side with 1L17. 31.10.2024, copyright Ken Mumford.
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4L36 framed by two 'Flying Cucumbers! On its left in platform 4 is 1B10 [Paddington to Cardiff] whilst on its right in platform 3 is 1B10 Cheltenham Spa to Paddington some 12 LATE. 31.10.2024, copyright Ken Mumford.
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1Q23 - 43272 leading with 43274 on the end. Stopped for about 3 or so minutes on platform 3 before leaving some 53 LATE. 31.10.2024, copyright Ken Mumford.
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The number of times I have stood on the eastern end of platform 4 and never noticed this - what is it? Copyright Ken Mumford.
Many thanks Ken, a nice selection

Something for the weekend?

Saturday 2nd November
Diesel / DMU day at The Bodmin Railway
Picture
Picture
Sunday 3rd November
Cornwall Model Railway Exhibition at Carn Brea
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